Just to add another explanation:
The Tg of a resin is about 15 degrees C (30F) above the highest temperature it has seen.
Exposing a laminate to a temperature above its Tg causes print. So if you toss a fresh laminate in a hot oven, it will print.
The purpose of a postcure is to have the resin crosslink further, so the Tg gets higher (up to a point that the highest Tg for that specific resin is reached, the ultimate Tg).
It takes a while for the Tg to develop. For instance, I have a resin which has an ultimate Tg of 82 degrees C. If I toss a sample in an oven at 60 degrees C, after some 3 hours the Tg reached 60, after 12 hours it is 72, after 18 hours 75, after 24 hours it is 76.
This means if you want to prevent print and distortion, you never should postcure above the current Tg of the part. This is where ramp rate jumps in.
Imagine an epoxy resin, cured at 20C. It has a Tg of some 35-40 degrees C. The correct way of postcuring is to place it in an oven, and have the oven rise the temperature slowly, so the actual temperature never overruns the Tg which is developed in the laminate.
Say the oven is 30C, the Tg will slowly rise to 45.
When at 45, you can put the oven at 40, to see the Tg rise to 55
And so on, until the ultimate Tg has reached. (no matter what you do, it never gets higher. The ultimate Tg is what is stated on the datasheet.
2 remarks:
It is not easy for us mere mortals to measure Tg, so there is some guesswork and a safety margin involved when postcuring. When in doubt, go slow.
It is important to have a means of controlling your oven.
You can also postcure in the mould, preferably with vacuum on, in which case print is less of an issue. Of course your mould should be able to withstand the temperatures as well (perhaps by doing a slow postcure?)
The speed at which Tg develops can be vastly different for different resins. Some are fast, and ramp rates can be high. Some are slow, and ramp rates should be adjusted.
Add to that the size of your part, and laminate thickness. Also (insulating) cores can do a lot of damage in this respect.
Some ballpark figures:
For smaller, thin parts, 20 degrees C per hour is usually acceptable
For larger, thick and / or cored parts, 10 degrees C per hour
For parts in heavy moulds, 5 degrees C would be better.
Composites are pretty good insulators, a 2cm thick (3/4") laminate, heated from one side with moderate heat (10C above ambient) takes 2 hours to reach an equilibrium.