My new project dasboard

dualtwill, the epoxy was supplied by a company on my side of the pond you can view tech data here,
www.prfcomposites.com for some reason when you open the web page dont click on resin straight away but click on reinforcements then back button then resinsystems and you get the menue on the left side.
The infusion took best part of 20 mins but the bulk of the infusion only took about 5 mins. I decided to use only one resin line running through my home made infusion jacket that from expierience works very well. As you can see from the pics two vac lines top and bottom of the mold. The slowest section to infuse was the two ends as you`d expect but i think there is no need to add more lines as it got there in the end.

Thanks, Baz

WOW!! very nice

Trully amazing! Congrats!:wink:

Wow man!!!

Looks just great ! Did you find areas too complex at times that kept you from doing the surface ply in one piece ? I guess a better question…was there trimming or splices involved in some difficult areas ?
I’m doing a very complex part simmiliar to this. I managed to do it in one single surface piece…but it was a S.O.B. to do it that way.
Makes me wonder if it would look acceptable with less stress by relieving with overlapped layers ?
…V’

Worldwealth, yes it is spliced/overlapped,with this piece it is impossible to do in one and keep a decent weave, if you choose carefully where to make the splice you will find it very difficult to spot, in fact i cant even see it and i did it.
To avoid any stray fibres dropping in the mold and ruining the piece i used good ol 77 tak spray and then cut, no problems and a nice stable join. Obviously all the main areas were in one piece and the splices are on the right hand side of the piece.

Best of luck with your part.

Baz

WOWZERS!!! :eek: That is AWESOME!!! How hard was it to demold?

Thanks. DO you mind mentioning about how long it took you to build/modify your dash plug before it could be molded? ( for the youngins/noobs).
I think this is an area that they tend to overlook…the reverse engineering of the pat.

Very nice!, is there any gel coat on this bad boy? or is that straight resin?

Demolding the dash takes about 20/30 mins first the part has to be trimmed in the mold where the bottom section is to be bonded on, i have an air port set in the mold so i can connect it to my compresser.

worldwealth, most people would have given up on this project it is a complex molding and had me beat on several occasions, but ok to give you an idea of times etc. The original dash made from vinyl covered thin foam on what i can only describe as a crap loose compressed hardboard which had warped/cracked due to being 20 years old was not the best starting point. There was no point ripping off the vinyl except that parts needed trimming to allow the various vents etc to fit when the carbon one was made (vinyl/foam moves to allow them to fit carbon doesn`t) The dash was then roughed up with 60 grit many many small holes drilled then bondo the whole dash. Many days of sanding more bondo and you have a straight looking dash, spray with Duratec grey primer, wet sand buff polish and take a 3 part mold.
From this mold pull a glassfibre part, cut out all the vent/instrument holes etc and check for fit also remove original dash from car and check that the glass dash will fit in the car.

Have i lost anyone yet lol

Right make any modifications neccessary to the new glass dash as this is now the new plug. More bondo/sanding/Duratec oh and before all this stiffening ribs on the back side to keep the shape correct. Time to make a new mold still a 3 part one other wise the plug won`t come out. Right the new 3 part mold done but this has now to be turned into a 2 part mold so join the two parts which make up the largest section permanently, the reason for this is no matter how good you are the parting line will show on your final part which will show a distortion line in the carbon weave. The back side of the now 2 part mold is stiffened using foam ribs and the whole lot glassed over and painted in a resin/gel coat mix (we dont want any leaks from here when infusing)

Still with me lol.

Now i ground out the old parting line about 1/8 wide x 1/8 deep drilled 1/8 holes along its length poured in super glue,spray activator, then added gel coat and carefully wet sanded this down. There you go this part of the mold is now one section and after pulling 4 dashes there is no sign of the joint cracking.

How long this little lot took i have no idea i did it over 2 years picking it up doing a bit, getting frustrated, putting it in the corner of the workshop, working out the problem then picking it up again. Too damn long and i should have given up on it but i will not be beaten and really wanted this dash in carbon.

20_rc, the dash in the pic had duratec in the mold before laying up, then the complete dash was sprayed in 2k clear.

I have almost completed a 4 x 4 twill dash for a customer, just got the ventilation ducting to do and a couple of bracket molds to make and that will be the first production dash complete.

I started out doing this for myself so to put it into production would not really be cost effective but a few people are willing to pay the £1200 for them so i will sell a few.

Baz

Dude, well done, thats THE nicest dashboard I have ever seen;)

sorry i am very new to this
but is that considered overlay or mold ?
if so how did u make the mold ?
and how are u going to mount this without all the mounting stubs ?

felix, look here theres some more on my dash project http://compositeforum.werksberg.com/showthread.php?t=1070

Felix this is not an overlay it`s from a mold and it took a very looooooooong time to develop. If you read my longish post in this thread of a few days ago it goes some way to explaining how the mold was made. The dash you see has been fitted to my car for almost a year now and any bracketry to fix the dash to the car has also been molded in carbon.

Baz