I concur, I’ve never ever had an issue infusing heavy 12k fabrics, even much thicker laminates than you are doing. I have infused a 950mm x 360mm laminate that was 25mm thick in one go using 12k quad-axial, no core. Yes that flowed slower than a 1mm thick laminate, but it fully infused in around one hour. And that was using LY3600 resin which is technically a hand lamination resin with a viscosity of 550cps. So you definitely have other issues.
Part came out almost perfect this time. I made sure the temperature was above 75, along with the resins temperature, and the was a solid seal on the stretchelon 800. Not quite sure what was the problem but it’s solved for the time being.
It is a vacuum problem! Always make sure your setup is tight!
And congratulaions, we want to see pictures 
ignore the weird weave in the center, that all gets cut away. Still tring to figure out how to get a high gloss out of the mold without an IMC
First your mould has to be high gloss to get a high gloss part out of mould. If you do not use an IMC the choice of the spray adhesive to fix the fibres is very important. The Airtac 2 for example will leave sticky pits at the surface, the MW (only a German brand sorry) will nit leave anything at the surface.
But youhave to work with a lower VF, you can get it if you place the resin pot at the same height than the part and leave the feedline a little longer open. One of the advantages of the MTI hose.
But I would prefer to use a IMC.
Just while you’re talking about IMC’s DD, I saw the spread-tow Radical RXC Spyder front bodywork you made, but my German is a bit rough to translate the info sheet.
Was that an out-of-mould finish with an IMC, or was it refinished? I was very impressed that there didn’t appear to be any print from the 3D Core, so it made me wonder if it had been refinished out of the mould.
Depends on which one you have seen:) Most of the fronts have one layer of clear on top because you have split moulds and after sanding the split lines it looks nicer after a light clearcoat. But there is also shiny finish direct after demoulding and no print.
When usind 3D Core it is important to take care wich side is to the mould side and a higher VF gives you less print. We have about 60% VF in the parts. The cars showed in Geneva and Birmingham had a layer of clearcoat on it.
Yeh I believe I saw the one that was at the Birmingham show. It’s an excellent piece, no small feat laying spread-tow fabric into a shape like that!
When you say it matters which side of the 3D Core, how can you tell one side from another? I use 3D core quite often, but I’ve always had print and I don’t see a difference between the sides?
Sorry for hijacking your thread mjalay!
The 3D Core has a smother and a more groved side. The smoother side has to be towards the mould surface.
hahah no worries
Now… Any opinion if the carbon miss-match looks ok or not? Should i just smooth everything out and paint black? Yes the far edge needs to be contoured and blended to the top part. the other think i am worried about is way too much carbon “look” on the car in general (see attached pic of it on the car
Still getting either little bubbles or dirt on the part when i add the gloss layer of epoxy. Its driving me crazy! I have tried thoroughly cleaning every thing (using Prep All) making sure there is nothing on the brush, degassing, spraying an alcohol mist to pop bubbles… nothing is working.
I will probably have to sand it down and pay some one to clear coat it since i have never sprayed any type of clear or automotive paint
One of the most important things to keep in mind to avoid the imprinting of the surface is to cure the resin at 100% before demoulding. Of course, the resin has to have a tg (real) of at least 80~90°C. to avoid to have the same problem under the sun.
Sorry,could you give any link for this MW glue ? I’d like to find it as i want to get perfect result without IMC.I use Cytec’s Aerofix2 at present moment.
Thank you,I’ll try to buy it in Germany.