Infusion Failure 3,4,5,6 - Need More Advice - Getting Very Discouraged

Yeh I think that is what is causing your dryness issues. You should clamp the vacuum line first, then the resin line. Unless you’re using MTI hose, you really shouldn’t leave the pump on and the vac line open.

And yes, the resin will move slower without the mesh. You should try to get the mesh as close together as you can, without making it go around the corner on your mould. So try to cut it the exact shape of the part, so that it sits nice and tight inside that radius. Then cut the pieces on the flange to shape. This way, it’s ONLY the radius on the mould that has no mesh, which is quite a small gap.

I’ll try that method tomorrow see if it helps.

Although the resin kicked before it even got into the outlet tube. In that pic, it reached the peel ply on the outlet, but that’s it. No resin in the spiral tubing, t fitting, or outlet line. Maybe there wasn’t enough time to saturate, but I think it’s more of the polyester resin viscosity. I’m going to try and infuse with less catalyst to see if it also needs more time to saturate.

OK so made another one today. I can say I do not have an issue with bubbling, voids, or pits. I can get a good vacuum and drop test passes (let it sit for 1 hour).

My new problem is that the carbon still looks dry on the surface. It seems like the resin is having a saturation problem. Does that mean it’s the polyester resin and the viscosity is too thick? This is the last piece of the puzzle. After this, I should be good. Any help with this last piece of the puzzle would be great.

Although there could be a couple of reasons, the most probable is the resin viscosity. whats the viscosity of the resin you’re using - about 375-450 cps is it? I checked fibreglass Hawaii but couldn’t see the data sheet. What temperature are you infusing at?
Lower viscosity the better as then you can control other variables if it infuses too quickly as opposed to the other way around

No clue on the viscosity. I asked them about the viscosity, but they couldn’t give me any information on it.

Temp usually in the 80s when infusing.

I think I’m going to order some I infusion epoxy from the mainland. I’m wasting to much money trying to experiment with different polyester resin and epoxy to which there isn’t a data sheet.

The systemthree mirrorcoat that I tried had a slight better coverage than the polyester, but both still had areas tht weren’t wetted out. The systemthree had a mixed viscosity of 700 cps

Yes I agree that’s a good way to do things. Theres so many variables to control when everything is going well, so it certainly doesn’t make life easier when there’s missing info. Likely that the viscosity is too high, particularly if its a standard polyester. So would be good to have a lower viscosity resin that’s for sure. 80 F is quite high actually so even standard polyester shouldn’t be too bad at that stage. Don’t suppose you could put up a vid of your process or even mix some resin that shows the viscosity?

Currently I wont’ be able get a video up until maybe next week. I’m not sure on the viscosity, but after I catalyze the resin and degas, it gets even thicker so I’m assuming that is where the problem lies. Today, I tried without degassing to keep a slightly less viscous resin, but still had the same result. The systemthree was slightly less viscous so maybe that’s why it wet out a little better but not good enough. I’m really starting to think it’s the resin.

Yesterday I asked the people at fibeglasshawaii about adding styrene monomer to thin out the resin but they weren’t to sure by how much the viscosity would change. All they told me was to not add more than 10% of the total volume. Rather than spend another $10 on styrene I opted to just wait and get the proper resin.

Standard laminating polys are usually somewhere between 600 and 700 CPS. Infusion resins that I’ve used run at about 100-150 CPS. It is a major difference even if you don’t think so by looking at it.

Are you using a gelcoat or just shooting dry carbon on the mold surface? Are the fibers loose or are they adhering to one another? Obviously, I’m just throwing this out there based on a couple of pictures but maybe what you are referring to as dry may simply be the fiber pressed against the mold with an extremely limited amount of resin encapsulation. Not really dry, just not well encapsulated. If the fiber is strongly forced against the mold surface, I don’t think infusion resin will change much as far as the cosmetics go.

I would definitely get the infusion resin to reduce the possibility of flow issues. Everything you can do to get rid of problems is a step in the right direction.

I’m putting dry fabric into the mold along with e super 77 on it. I think you described it best. It’s as though the there is limited resin encapsulation. The only way I came up to fix this was to do a flood coat on top, but just adds unnecessary weight. If this is the issue, how do I remedy the issue?

Epoxy infusion resin was ordered and should be here next week.

You remedy it by stop wasting time, money, and resources until you have the proper epoxy. Bottom line.

You’re still trying to jam a square peg into a round hole. You might get it to fit with the wrong epoxy, but its going to take A LOT of effort and look like garbage. Wait until you have the round peg.

I also think wait until your infusion epoxy arrives. If you still have issues with that resin then you can start looking for other issues, but until you’ve ruled out your current resin it’s just too hard to look past it as the culprit.

Exactly. For now, ill build more molds. The infusion epoxy won’t be here until next week :frowning:

Good idea. Clean up your moulds and I think you’ll nail it first shot when the resin arrives. It really does make a huge difference to have nice neat moulds with a good size flange.

No rush man. Rome wasn’t built in a day. Get some new molds made with some legit flanges and you’ll thank us once everything is coming out the way you want it.