are you using a wetmil gauge?
use an aerosol paste on your corners. my argument for this is that any downsides are far outweighed by having a useable part, not another one for the rubbish bin.
I have one, but I didn’t use it because I honestly thought I had sprayed way more than I needed to rule out any possibility of tripe. Evidently, I didn’t spray that section any where near enough as I thought I did. Will definitely need to use my gauge next time.
I used about 700 grams for the whole bonnet.
Are we talking fumed silica or are you recommending an aerosol product?
I can make a paste, if thats what you’re talking about, but like I mentioned previously these parts cost me next to nothing to make. This is more about learning than making something. Granted, the goal is to make something, but it’s to make something with great skill.
If the tearing option doesn’t work, then I will use a paste. Rather leave it for a last resort though, as the aim is to learn.
Cheers for your input! 
Are your issues with the corners on the edges of the mould there? Are you trying to make the mould without having to do any trimming? I would recommend overhanging your mat 1-2 inches over the edge, and trim it off once cured, or if you time it well you can trim it with a razor blade while it’s green. The edges always like to lift away, as the fibres try to stay straight.
Flanges again will help you here? Most of my moulds (why not perfect as im still learning also) I find that having a flang and running the matt well past the desiered flange area and trimming later has also helped.
I actually getting some surface tissue for a different application but thinking about using that for backing in tight corners also.
tearing the CSM whas worked well for me as the looser fibers seem to take to the curves better. you can also mix some ripped up CSM with a but on resin to fill in these areas (im yet to try this).
look on the bright side, i have a baby in the house with an adjoining garage so alll my learning is done with epoxy! costs a fk load more when you bin parts and moulds during the learning process!
I wouldn’t recommend using surface tissue behind the gelcoat, it likes to trap bubbles. I’d use 100 gram mat as a minimum, but 225 is very good at conforming to corners, and I’m yet to find an angle that I can’t get the 225 to work on.
My issue is the edges, yes. I let it overhang slightly, but I trimmed it in the photo in hopes that it’d conform to the edges better and give me a better copy of the mould and better edges to cut along. At the edge where it curves down, the gelcoat and the chopped strand takes it’s seperate ways. It’s annoying. So maybe it’s the cut edge that’s making it too stiff to conform downwards.
I’m thinking I can pull the flange off, but it annoys me to spend so much time on building a flange only to find the whole part is ruined because I’m not upto the skill of making the part yet. That, and any other business I see making moulds don’t seem to use flanges and they have great success. They don’t appear to be necissary. I just want to create a bonnet for now 
The 225 doesn’t seem to want to hang straight down! lol so frustrating!
I’ll get there though!
yeah bud fumed silica. sorry should have proof read.
I have to agree with your comments on tissue Hanaldo. ive used some nice tissue but usually its terrible.
All good man
I’ve got access to really good surface tissue, but Ive never really like it… But In truth I’ve never used it, just sold it.