Damn fine repair Tom! I love when you post in showcase!
I shot some clear on the airbox yesterday with the same HF gun that I used to shoot the gelcoat for the mold. I have been painting a long time and have some very expensive spray guns.
the HF gun is a lot of bang for the $
I almost never clear coat my stuff, maybe 4 parts total since I have been doing this stuff. I had some cosmetic flaws that needed to be camouflaged.
I will wet sand/buff today and ship tomorrow. it will be on a car running in the SCCA National Championship Runoffs at Laguna Seca in October.
Looks great. I’d love to do lots of stuff like that but a mixture of too many projects already and laziness means I will probably never get around to it. 
it fit!
Wow Tom, that is some seriously cool work you’ve done there! My brother and I are just starting out on what will hopefully be a similar path to you, just minus the 25years of composite shop experience… Hoping to catch up with you some day, but it’ll be a long road I think!!
great work!
What resin did you infuse with? Did you post cure?
Great thanks!
So you had no problems infusing that size in <70min with degassing first etc? Esp with a 320cps viscosity?
Any insight as far as how everything was set up before infusion, flow pattern, material etc?
I always try to have the longest gel time available, I’ve had nightmare infusions a few times where things gel partly due to the resin viscosity/gel time characteristics… I would love to learn what techniques/tricks were used.
Thanks!
Hi guys-
I’ve been on the road for a while and busy with a few cars for the National.
just got back last night from the last race of the season.
Now it gets real busy.
the airbox was done wet bagged with PTM&W 2050. I use 2712 for all the big stuff.
By the way the airbox car took 2nd. at the National. He came in 1st. but got busted back for passing under yellow. (it happens)
I finished this car last month. I did it years ago for the wife of a friend of mine. (made a scoop too) This time I fitted it a lot better, fixed up a used nose and squirted it in back of my garage.
She took to the track with it this last weekend.
I widened the tail a bit for better tire clearance. Did a lot of upgrades, & closed up the shut lines by cutting and moving the edges closer. I wanted it to look like credit card slots
I will get back here soon, shop is a disaster
Cool! Gulf colors…
wow, awesome production. can see the amount of work and labour behind those cf parts and molds. hard work and eye for details always pays.
some stuff I’ve done
this is a tail I did a few years ago. I built the master from a part made from another mold. Used Duratec primer for surface coat. I think I posted these pics before
the mold for the Carbir nose. Epoxy, very heavy!
the nose after I converted it with the fender vents. 1st. one always has a few flaws
After this piece came out I did some aero work (ducting from front wheels)
(I sure wish I had a kid sometimes to help and train for cheap)
Unless I can find a new floor for a March INDY car (cheap) I will have to fix this one
the battery exploded and the car caught fire at a Vintage race
Wow now that sounds like a challenge. Good to know you look like you have just the skills to pull it off.
The tunnel section is warped badly. When I go to put in the new honeycomb I will make a caul plate with my English wheel and bag it inside to get the shape back.
I will have plenty of time to think about it. I leave Sun for a week in Death Valley. Taking my riding partners camper & bringing dual sports.
Mine is a Suzuki DR 650. And yes I did not leave it alone as far as carbon & Kevlar.
side case guards are many plies Kevlar and outside ply of 8 harness
I will take the road fender that I made from Kev-C/F & put the stock back on
As for metal work on the bike I built the skid plate, pannier racks, tool box tube,& a few other gizmo farkles. 
This this is a lot of fun, it’s as heavy as an old Buick but I ride slow a lot.
Sorry to hi-jack the thread but “I’m on Vacation”
Tom, I’m always impressed with your work. You can tell how good a composite technician is if they can repair and the quality of the repair. I’m not a “top dog” but I learn every day and from people such as yourself.
Tom, How does NidaCore honeycomb work for bracing up a mold? I’m guessing that was what you used on that front nose mold?
hey guys, what is the tg of Aeropoxy cured at room temp?
I used Divinycell, and have had good luck with Nida, and a few others. the original parts from the factory came with the same type cores. The older ones were balsa.
sorry for the late reply, I’ve been riding in Death Valley all week
I have not used it. someone here said it was the same as 2050 (that I use, & so does SpaceEx)
The tech Rep’s at PTM&W are very helpful. Scot Stettler is one of the tech support guys I have dealt with. When I did the grey tail in this thread I went down there and picked his brain. Cool guy, email him or call the factory.
Scot Stettler sstettler@ptm-w.com