well, considering I have worked with many high production manufacturers, we have never needed to use pva unless the mold is in very bad condition, and never have had problems with sticking with either wax or semi’s… and I never said i know better then everyone else, I simply state the methods that I know work and are reguraly practiced day to day. If you dont like my opinion or anyone else’s here then so be it, dont cry about it because its not your method. if you look at the begining of this post I simply told him he needed to thin the pva out, I did not tell him not to use or he doesnt know what he is doing. All I have simply done is agree with classic and you get all agro… goodluck with your composites, I am done with this argument, it went to long, and shouldnt of even started
guys, guys, please… i dont know your stories, but theres nothing to gain by insulting each other like that… everyone can present their own method, and we, as noobs, can choose , or even experiment. diversity is always a good thing, and thinking out of the box is welcome…
anyway,racedout i brush on a very light film of release thingy, (lets assume its pva, what i use) and it makes a very thin and strong surface, which can be pulled by hand, and washed off with water (and soap for better results) .assuming we are using the same thing, can you describe me your spraying method, and how much you thin the mixture out? with my way, i get a very thin film, thus not losing the plug’s detail… can this be achieved with spraying with your method?
hojo, classic your input on this forum is excellent and appreicated. Please don’t take this guys comments to heart and just ignore him. We all know where he stands and where you guys stand as far as quality of parts or whatever, so don’t feel the need to feed into his antagonism. This is a good forum and I’d hate to see it fall apart simply because of a pissing match… we’ve seen pictures of all three of your guy’s parts and they speak for themselves.
Thank you RC, Its nice to see some people appreciate the knowledge that we try to share with all you, and I allso appreciate all that everyone else has tought me. I did not want it to turn in to this, and feel very immature now for even getting involved with such childish comments. once again thanks.
actually you havent seen any pictures of my finished parts…you have seen 1 picture where a part had bad bridging thats it…i dont post alot of pictures on here because there are tools like you that will flood the market with your cheap PER infested parts for less money than what i sell my low quality parts for…
LOL that was some funny stuff. I do wish someone would show me a picture of a mould they just pulled using PVA only. I am interested in seeing the mold detail and see how it compares to a semi mold. Any takers?
sure, heres a mold I made with semi, no pva…
thats perfect…
cool 
I dont think we need to see any pictures of your parts, to get a pretty good idea they may well leave a lot to be desired!
And in commercial terms it would be madness to use anything other than PER for making cosmetic items, as strangely unit cost is pretty important.
STOP this flaming war or else you will be banned off here! :mad:
Geez, can’t a guy get sick and take a few days off without a flame war going on?
Both have good points, but IMO…
Personally, I hate PVA (aga, green liquid water base mold release) as I never could get a smooth finish using PVA. The part would show the imperfect PVA surface, unless you want to sand and recoat (clear coat) the part after using PVA.
PVA is very good for plugs that the mold will need to be sanded and polished, but I don’t like to work harder than I need too.
You need to spray PVA at a low pressure and very thin (dust) coats on first. Then build up coats until you can spray a full wet coat on the plug / mold. Let it dry and lay it up as soon as you can touch the PVA and not leave a finger print. If you wait til the next day or so, dirt will get on the surface and transfer to your part surface.
I like to use wax and better yet, Semi Pernament mold realeases (I’ll be selling small quantities soon as I can find some containers that I can buy and pour down) as they are fool proof and if the mold is polished smooth, every part out of the mold is too!
Ok guys, let’s all calm down and get back on topic. Just ignore “racedout” if you don’t agree with his comments. We’ve all seen his work, and it leaves much to be desired. Such as:
http://www.compositeforum.werksberg.com/showthread.php?p=16331#post16331
http://www.compositeforum.werksberg.com/showthread.php?t=2521
http://www.compositeforum.werksberg.com/showthread.php?t=2514
With bad molds, one can only imagine the parts that come out of them.
But if he’s ok with it and doesn’t want to accept helpful advice, it’s up to him. No need to argue about it, and waste time attacking each other.
Personally, I would never use PVA, even if making 1 part or 1,000. There are much better products out there.
TET summed it up… the proof is in the pudding. Hojo has given me endless free advice, and I appreciate that. I use PVA, as no matter how carefully I apply my wax, I seem to get a little sticking.
sorry werksberg for what happened, I had not intention to have it go so far. As for the PVA, I have no problem with anyone using it, it is a personal preference
No Problem hojo and we apprecate you being on here!
Every method has an application. Some molds need different releases to get the parts out. There is no definitive mold release. I use them all in different circumstances. depends on many variables. Temp, humidity, surface coat, flexibility of mold etc…
I wax the mold twice, shoot PVA, unthinned, low pressure (30PSI), three dust coats, one SLIGHTLY heavier coat, then wax AGAIN twice.
HTH
CCE
We should start a new Sticky on releases that are available and how to apply them the right way. This thread upsets me when i read it.