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gt4, it was me that was using silicone. but it was on that other now useless forum.
get got the mould out and it turned out great.
the sealant didnt react with anything and even helped to hold the edges on once it was dry (took 24hours).
the stuff is basicly self releasing if you have smoothed the surface while its fresh. i used my finger covered in water. got a lot of the excess off and filled the gap better that way.
i allways wax my edges even if i have used alu tape (thank you that was a top idea) but we tested some of the silicone with resin before we tried it on a mould.
i was VERY happy with the results after using that stuff and your card and alu tape edges. it was great.
L.
i said one other time, you’d have a hard time convincing me it doesn’t work together. 10 years old and zero repairs. there’s something there. we use a normal csm that you could find in your local neighborhood tienda. i found though with the R/H we use that the resin isn’t there to wet the glass out so much as the glass is there to keep the resin from falling off. sure there’s the obvious glass reenforcement that’s happening but a 1/4" thick chunk of our resin is not easily broken by hand. although i’m not suggesting that i’d ever make a mold just from the resin, i’m simply explaining the resin.
so if it doesn’t work. come down here and prove it to me, cause i’m just not seeing it.
what type of applications are you refering to when you say that epoxy and mat don’t work together.?[/quote]
yeh not here to argue with you…
i was told that because the epoxy doesnt brake down the binder in the csm, i couldnt use epoxy with csm.
so the tough expoy forms the detail of the mould? and the glass is just layed in like any old renforcement to add strengeth?
i need to do some long life moulds so i think i may well try this.
L.
well, since as someone said, the binder doesn’t break down that would explain why it’s more difficult to lay it out. but depending on what the form is, if you break it up into smaller pieces, it’ll lay fine. we wet the hell out of our molds too to make sure of complete saturation. the oz’s of resin that run off onto the lam table are well worth the insurance of having a solid mold with no air bubbles. we don’t roll them out either, just wet and go.
you can get non binder galss mat. bot used it myself but i have heard its the thing to use if you want to expoy with the glass. mind you if your method works then it works 